----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Erlacher <edick_at_idcomm.com>
To: <classiccmp_at_classiccmp.org>
Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2001 11:12 PM
Subject: Re: Kim / Commie keypads
> As far as looking for key switches, for functionality, I rather liked
Sellam's
> suggestion implying that an old PC Keyboard (not a rarity) might provide
> sufficient switches.
That's a great idea. I have a few dead ones in
the boneyard. Might as well tear into one and see
if it can be salvaged.
I'm going to have to learn to desolder I guess. :)
Don't know how I got this far in electronics hobby
building and never had to do any serious parts
removal.
Moreover, with a good software package and a hi-res
> printer, you could make key legends that you can rubber-cement to the
keycaps
> and paint over with clear laquer. If you don't mind that they're less
durable,
> you can even use the (clear vinyl, not "magic") scotch tape to keep from
rubbing
> off the legends. The caps come off the keytops, and if you are careful
you can
> do this so it looks good and works very well.
>
> Dick
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ross Archer" <dogbert_at_mindless.com>
> To: <classiccmp_at_classiccmp.org>
> Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2001 8:31 PM
> Subject: Re: Kim / Commie keypads
>
>
> >
> >
> > Richard Erlacher wrote:
> >
> > > Look "good" ... ??? ... Depends on your preferences, I guess.
> > >
> > > A big part of the question of HOW to go about fixing this is to answer
the
> > > question of whether your goal is to restore the KIM-1 to its original
> condition
> > > for historical authenticity or whether you'd just as soon have
something
> that
> > > works well instead.
> >
> > Operational is the main thing, but I'd be thrilled to restore it if the
> opportunity
> > came up.
> >
> > My main interest in the KIM and other really simple machines is as a
> > hands-on demo of what being a computerist was like in the early days
> > of microcomputers, before the keyboard, box, and monitor
> > paradigm took hold. Extra points for toggle switches too. :)
> >
> > I've seen interest in the thing from visitors who are
> > into computers, and so far all were less "what a quaint but completely
> > prehistoric piece of junk" than "wow, I can't believe a machine with
> > 1/1000th the CPU speed and 1/64,000th the memory can play
> > Hunt the Wumpus and other games and they're even a little fun." :)
> > It's a tribute to doing an amazing amount with what by modern standards
> > seems preposterously little, and I think preserving this realization is
part
> > of what being "into" classic computers can be about.
> >
> >
> >
> > > If the former is your goal, then you've a lot of hunting to
> > > do, but may eventually find out how to modify some other product to
fit the
> > > application. On the other hand, there are lots of available keypads,
or, if
> you
> > > prefer, lots of available individual keyswitches with
removable/clear-capped
> > > tops, that you can build a really decent and servicable keypad that
you can
> > > attach to the auxilliary connector in order to substitute it for the
> original
> > > without having first to remove the existing keypad. It seems to me
that
> they
> > > should work quite well in parallel.
> >
> > Okay. I try the regular electronics outlets. I'll try specifically
keyboard
> > manufacturers (ALPs, Cherry, etc. I guess) and see what I can dig up.
> >
> > >
> > >
> > > I don't know that Commodore actually fabricated the keypads
themselves, and,
> in
> > > fact, rather doubt it, so it's likely someone, somewhere, will have
used a
> > > similar keypad, or, at least, similar switches, so that will provide
you
> with
> > > amusement at swapmeets and junk sales. Moreover, if you haven't yet
looked
> at
> > > third-party switch catalogs, I'd certainly recommend that so you can
explore
> > > replacing the keypad with a possibly more durable and/or convenient,
yet
> > > cosmetically similar keypad.
> > >
> > > This will require some serious head-scratching.
> > >
> > > Dick
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Ross Archer" <dogbert_at_mindless.com>
> > > To: <classiccmp_at_classiccmp.org>
> > > Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2001 1:17 AM
> > > Subject: Re: Kim / Commie keypads
> > >
> > > >
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: Ethan Dicks <ethan_dicks_at_yahoo.com>
> > > > To: <classiccmp_at_classiccmp.org>
> > > > Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2001 1:21 PM
> > > > Subject: Re: Kim / Commie keypads
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > --- Richard Erlacher <edick_at_idcomm.com> wrote:
> > > > > > It's pretty hard to tell whether it's the keypad or the circuit
that's
> > > > > > malfunctioning. How did you determine it's the keypad itself?
> > > > >
> > > > > Looking at the schematic, it appears to be a simple matrix. Short
a
> > > > particular
> > > > > X and Y line for the questionable key. If it "strikes", it's the
> keypad.
> > > > > If it still flakes out, it could be a component or trace.
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > > Right. It's a 3 x 7 array with 2 keys wired to a 556 for ST (step)
and
> > > > RS (reset).
> > > >
> > > > I've already tested the broken keys via the edge connector, and
they're
> > > > working fine. Not that there was too much doubt, as the buttons
> > > > involved are either caved in or "feel like they're not connecting
> > > > with anything". So a 3x7 + 2 switch setup should do the trick,
> > > > but what would look good.
> > > >
> > > > > -ethan
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > =====
> > > > > Even though my old e-mail address is no longer going to
> > > > > vanish, please note my new public address: erd_at_iname.com
> > > > >
> > > > > The original webpage address is still going away. The
> > > > > permanent home is: http://penguincentral.com/
> > > > >
> > > > > See http://ohio.voyager.net/ for details.
> > > > >
> > > > > __________________________________________________
> > > > > Do You Yahoo!?
> > > > > Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
> > > > > http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> >
> >
>
Received on Fri Apr 13 2001 - 08:03:39 BST