Stains caused by Cigarette smoke

From: Russ Blakeman <blakeman_at_creative-net.net>
Date: Tue Sep 22 20:01:50 1998

Joe wrote:

> At 11:10 AM 9/22/98 -0500, you wrote:
>
> >For the permanent stains, I disassemble and lightly sand the parts and
> >then tack rag them. I get the cheap stain finish paint that Walmart
> >sells (since it has toluene base and will soften into the plastic and
> >stay for good) and repaint the whole piece with the applicable paint.
> >They have a black, light grey, tan and off white that match the original
> >colors nearly to the T. I let them dry very well, usually overnight to
> >make sure that nothing has softened, and then wipe them down good with a
> >damp rag to get rid of the excess spray dust and then reassemble. I use
> >denatured alcohol to clean them prior to painting to make sure there
> >isn't any oily stuff left.
> >
>
> Russ,
>
> That sounds like a great idea for smooth surfaces but what about
> surfaces that have a pebble finish?

If you need to re-pebble an area that's been filled, I use a gauze sponge
(square folded up of guaze) wet with acetone and then the acetone softens the
plastic (usually styrene type plastic anyway) and the guaze will put marks in
it similar to the finish it had. Of course you have to get used to it on a
junker first or you might just ruin the good one. That's what new computer's
cases were made for, trial and error. You can always get another clone case
faceplate.

As for something like the Sanyo, the are hammer finish paints out too, I just
use a Badger or Paasche airbrush to spray them on and then they hammer finish
them selves, whether on metal or plastic. Plastic usually takes a good primer
coat first though.
Received on Tue Sep 22 1998 - 20:01:50 BST