Now I've seen everything]

From: jpero_at_cgocable.net <(jpero_at_cgocable.net)>
Date: Mon Dec 20 18:02:08 1999

> Date: Mon, 20 Dec 1999 23:31:19 -0500 (EST)
> Reply-to: classiccmp_at_u.washington.edu
> From: Allison J Parent <allisonp_at_world.std.com>
> To: "Discussion re-collecting of classic computers" <classiccmp_at_u.washington.edu>
> Subject: Re: Now I've seen everything]

>
> <Picked up a LQPX2-SW tonight; its a 2-port 25-pin serial A/B switchbox
> <with the d|i|g|i|t|a|l logo on it, made out of shiny "burnished" stainless
> <steel.
>
> FYI: it's aluminum I have two.
>

Stainless steel even polished to high sheen still have it's light
grey that most stainless steel has.

Aluminum softer and galls "blackened marks" easily, won't hold sheen
long unless clear-coated. Whitish in color on fresh cuts.

Steel rusts, tend to be bit lighter grey and more duller if
acid-etched to passivate it. Often looks yellowish tint on stamped
items.

In terms of machinablity I like aluminum especially with hand tools
if mid-strengh requires this. But overall, I prefer brass for ease
of machining by machine and gives clean cuts, doesn't galls as much
and less prone to rust that steel suffers. Stainless steel is POOR
in structual parts where there's active loads even light ones and
wearablity is also not as good.

OT:

Remind me to tell that, not great idea to cook with
potmetal/aluminum containing cookwares except copper is perfectly
fine but not with acidic foods. That is where stainless steel comes
in (poor cooking heat except thoses that has copper or aluminum
bottom welded on. Also cast iron or ceramic erameled cookwares is
fine for this.

Wizard
Received on Mon Dec 20 1999 - 18:02:08 GMT