The purpose of using WD-40 as opposed to some stickier oil is that it does
evaporate. It will make the moly-disulfide stick while you spread it around
by working the mechanism, and, once in place, it sticks pretty well by
itself.
Though you may be able to "feel" your way around, maybe with a 'scope to
check signal amplitude, I rather doubt you'll be able to eyeball in the
index alignment, which I've found to be far and away the most common
misalignment. The spec for that is referenced to the index pulse, and the
timing is nominally 200 uSEC give or take 100. That doesn't sound bad, but
since you can't see the reference, and have no calibrated reference without
an alignment diskette, I doubt you can do it using "the force".
If you remove the stepper/lead-screw-head-assembly unit, you have to set the
azimuthal alignment as well, and that one is quite easily mucked up. Drives
are not very tolerant of this one and a 1-2-degree misadjustment can cause
quite a lot of error.
I'd say an alignment diskette is pretty necessary.
Dick
----- Original Message -----
From: allisonp <allisonp_at_world.std.com>
To: <classiccmp_at_classiccmp.org>
Sent: Thursday, April 13, 2000 4:36 PM
Subject: Re: Lubing Shugart 800,801's?
> First item,,
>
> I've seen lots of 800/810s with lube on the leadscrew from the factory.
>
> Two, carb cleaner is toxic and usually bad for most plastics.
>
> My cut is pull the lead screw/stepper and properly clean it and lube
> very lightly with good molly grease.
>
> >that is available to you, then lubing it with a LIGHT coat of (one drop
for
> >every three drives) of WD40, then adding about 1/4 tsp of moly-disulfide,
>
>
> WD40 is penetrant and evaporates very quicly leaving mostly nothing.
>
> After your done cleaning any know good disk will suffice for alignment.
> I've even eyeballed them in. the tracks are really quite wide!
>
> Allison
>
>
Received on Fri Apr 14 2000 - 03:22:54 BST