Also worthy of mention on some cleaning is Bon-Ami. It gives you a nice
cleaening job without tearing up the finish like cleanser does. I use it a
lot lot polishing compound (I use white compound on occasion as well) but
with less force and more for cleaning than actual polishing.
When I worked for Jabil rebuilding Handspring handheld PDA's this last
January they had a orange based solvent remover made by 3M but on plastics
it would haze the finish. Gave you the smell of tangerines in your sinuses
all day too.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-classiccmp_at_classiccmp.org
> [mailto:owner-classiccmp_at_classiccmp.org]On Behalf Of John Foust
> Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2001 9:04 AM
> To: classiccmp_at_classiccmp.org
> Subject: Re: Citrisolv?
>
>
> At 09:45 PM 4/10/01 -0700, you wrote:
> >Speaking of solvents, anybody have experience with commercial grade
> >Citrisolv? (D-limene)
> >Things I plan to clean; a batch of gummy old mac floppy drives, general
> >dirty computer stuff, and maybe a few spots on the carpet. Any
> experienced
> >people have some tips?
>
> In terms of restoration, it's best to start with the least
> nasty or destructive cleaners first, and proceed to the big guns
> later if the others don't work.
>
> When cleaning microscopes and optics, I'll start with
> compressed air, then a lens cleaning tissue, and depending on
> the surface (optical or not) I'll proceed to lens cleaner,
> a spray cleaner something like Cinch or 409, to the
> Simple Green style of cleaner (diluted or not), to mechanical
> abrasion of a 3M ScotchBrite pad, and/or mixed with an
> aforementioned solvent, or a little Barkeeper's Friend
> (sodium oxalate and mild abrasive), up through Goo-Gone
> and $3 a can brake cleaner, which will take away almost
> anything greasy.
>
> I'd think you don't want to remove paint labels from the
> circuit boards, or harm belts or other rubber bits, no?
>
> - John
>
Received on Wed Apr 11 2001 - 09:38:58 BST
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