re-keying an RS/6000 lock?

From: Fred Cisin <cisin_at_xenosoft.com>
Date: Tue Jun 4 17:44:49 2002

> > > > right diameter (hint: look at drill bit shanks as an easy source of
> > > > various diameters)

When using drill bit shanks as plug followers, you sometimes need to use a
piece of shim stock to keep the pins from falling in the gap between the
plug and follower.

> > > > If you can remove the lock completely, then you have the option of
> > > > handing the entire task oer to a locksmith, who has experience doing
> > > > it. It usually isn't very expensive.
On Tue, 4 Jun 2002, Tony Duell wrote:
> > > Yes, but what's the fun in that ;-)
> My comment was that it's not much fun to have somebody else do the work.
> Not that locksmithing isn't fun (it is...)

Some people just don't appreciate fun. (or have too low a frustration
tolerance level to handle locksmithing (or assembly language programming))


> > Well... my brother _is_ a locksmith, and he has a fun toy - a circular
> > pin-tumbler lock *pick* - it is essentially a follower that is the same
> > proportions as a real key, 4" (10cm) long with a large knob for a
> Sure...
> It is possible to pick a cylindrical lock like any other -- by applying
> torque and picking the pins one at a time. The problem is that once
> you've done this, the moving disk (see my other posting) will move
> through the angle between the pins (perhaps 1/8 revolution) and then lock
> again. And you'll have to pick it again. Considering that you might have
> to turn the disk through 3/4 revolution or something, this is a somewhat
> impractical way of picking the lock.

The commercial tubular lock picks have enough friction that once a pin is
set, the pick stays in position and that pin does NOT relock when you get
to the next position. And the tool can even be used as if it were an
original key in duplicating a new key. That ability to work with all pins
at once is one of the big differences in working with tubular locks. You
could make such a tool with a piece of tubing, or a key that has the
correct pin positions (kinda like picking the correct DIN connector).
Mill slots and put in sliders. Give the slider enough resistance that it
will push pins, but won't force a set pin out of position.


Note that a lot of cheap clones have what looks like a lock, but will open
with damn near anything that will fit in the keyhole.
Received on Tue Jun 04 2002 - 17:44:49 BST

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