> From: ard_at_p850ug1.demon.co.uk
>
> > The guy there is accustomed to seeing me come in for DE9 connectors,
> > hoods, & computer stuff, and always asks "What are you building this
> > time?" He doesn't know anything, but at least he's curious... I found
> > a push-button rated at 3A, 125VAC, and brought it up. Darrell says
> > "Building one from scratch now, are ya?" I told him no, it's a starter
> > switch for my pickup. He refused to sell it to me, because "Those
> > starters pull 20 or 30 amps, and that's *DC*, too! That switch will
>
> Hmm... In every UK car I have worked on, the starter motor itself draws
> about 600A on-load from the battery. This current is switched by the
> starter solenoid contacts which acts (in part -- it also moves the
> pinion into mesh with the flywheel) as a large relay.
> ...
>
> Now, admittedly the former should only operate until the solenoid has
> pulled in, But if there are problems (a typical one is a relatively high
> high resistance connection in the circuit which limits the current to
> (say) 10A -- the solenoid will then not pull in and disconnect the first
> winding), then the current through the switch will be a lot higher than
> you might expect.
>
> I certainly wouldn't use a 3A AC swtich for a starter solenoid operating
> button. It's way underrated.
>
> -tony
>
Umm. what about just going to your local race car/performance auto
shop(or website), and buy a real starter button for your truck?
e.g. for only $8.55US...
http://www.driverfx.com/products/productDetails.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=1788
187&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=1620351&affID=2958&bmUID=1023977805203
--
--- David A Woyciesjes
--- C & IS Support Specialist
--- Yale University Press
--- (203) 432-0953
--- ICQ # - 905818
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Running since 01/22/2002 without a crash
Received on Thu Jun 13 2002 - 09:24:44 BST