----- Original Message -----
From: "Pat Finnegan" <pat_at_purdueriots.com>
To: <classiccmp_at_classiccmp.org>
Cc: "Matthew Sell" <msell_at_ontimesupport.com>
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 01:45 AM
Subject: Re: Anything special about converting VAX 11/780 to single phase?
> You will probably want to wire the 6000 you're gonna power off of the same
> branch opposite - connect P1 and P3 to phase 1 and P2 to phase 2, to make
> sure you balance everything as much as possible. Personally, I'd
> recommend getting rid of the power distribution box and using a couple of
> power strips instead - put P1 and half of P2 on one phase, and P3 and the
> rest of P2 on the other phase. You'll want to have a current meter of
> some sort to help balance things out - get a clamp on one, a cheap one is
> worth it.
<nitpick> Two-phase is most highly unlikely to be found in a house-- you
would probably have to generate it yourself. Standard is 120/240 single
phase, refered to as the A leg and B leg around here.</nitpick>
>
> You can turn on the power strips in the proper order to simulate the old
> power distribution box.
>
> > While we are at it, is there a good standard way of splicing
> > a branch from a wire without cutting the wire? This one is a
> > #6 wire, a real hassle to mess with, and I don't have any
> > spare length. So, I was hoping to find a T-piece connector
> > to just interpose:
> >
> > ______________
> > ================ ==================
> > ~~~~+ || +~~~~
> > | || |
> > | || |
> > ||
> > ||
> > ||
> > ||
> >
>
> NOOOOOOO!!!!! Go spend another $10 and get a few extra feet of wire, a
> small propane torch, some solder and a couple wire nuts. Cut and twist
> all three wires, solder them together, and put the wire nut on, secure
> with electical tape. If you want, you could skip the soldering part. But
> dont, DONT use a T-splice on 120V/240V. It's OK on ground wires, but
> that's all the stuff is meant for.
It sounds like he's refering to split-bolts (a bolt-like thing with a slot
down the middle threaded part and a nut that cranks down and closes the
slot) These are acceptable for taps on non-grounded conductors, but make
sure you insulate them good! Personally I don't think you'd be able to get
them wrapped well enough without pulling them out into a loop, and then you
might as well use wirenuts. You are placing the taps in a junction box,
right?
I don't have my Code book handy, but I wouldn't run anything smaller than a
#6 for 60A-- you might have to go to a #4 for that kind of current.
>
> All I've gotta say is spend the extra couple dollars to do it right now.
> The NEC was written by analyzing electrical fires. You don't really want
> to have your home burn to the ground because you were trying to save a few
> dollars.
This is one of those times when a professional really should be consulted.
>
> -- PAt
Bob
Received on Mon May 13 2002 - 06:23:35 BST