Help request: Impact printer by the digital group

From: Joe <rigdonj_at_cfl.rr.com>
Date: Wed Oct 22 21:14:26 2003

At 04:49 PM 10/22/03 -0700, you wrote:
>excellent job in restoring this printer!
>
>I would have two suggestions for you.
>
>for lubricant use a very fine graphite material.

   I've had great luck using liquid graphite lock lubricant. The solvent
evaporates and leaves only the graphite. The graphite particles in the
liquid lube are much finer than those used in the powered stuff. The
powdered stuff is useless for everything that I've ever tested it for,
including lubricating locks! There several good things about the liquid
graphite. First, it doesn't cause drag the way that liquid lubes (oil,
grease) do. And since it's dry it doesn't attract and hold dirt and sand (a
real problem here in Florida!). And in a case such as your's, it will
tolerate high temperatures. The biggest problem is that no one seems to
make or sell it any more! I had a can of it but it developed a leak and all
leaked away. When I tried to buy more I was surprised to find that no one
carried it and I was told that no one still made it. I finally found an old
locksmith that can me a can of the stuff. Now I guard it with my life! A
LITTLE bit of this stuff goes a long ways. Use it EXTREMELY sparingly.


>
>If you need to, use tungsten wire for the print
>hammer pins themselves. Also replacements would
>not rust.

   If you can't find the right size wire, try piano wire (from a hobby
shop) or drill rod (industrial suppliers). Drill rod is annealed (soft) but
it can easily be hardened after you cut it to length. Drill rod is
available in MANY diameters and it's size is very uniform and accurate.
IIIRC it's available in both oil-hardening and water-hardening types.

    Joe

>
>Jim
>
>Bryan Blackburn wrote:
>
>
Received on Wed Oct 22 2003 - 21:14:26 BST