Mouse doody

From: Don Maslin <donm_at_cts.com>
Date: Wed Jan 14 16:31:30 2004

On Wed, 14 Jan 2004, Claude Ceccon wrote:

> Some comments on cleaning electronics which have been despoiled by
> biorchid rodents and other sources:
>
> Loose stuff should be removed by dusting, vacuuming or blowing off the
> offending offal. However, in low humidity locations be aware that you
> can build up fairly large static charges can be generated by vacuum
> cleaners / air jets. I normally place boards on conductive mats and
> ground the nozzle to the mat, or in the case of cabinets, the cabinet.
>
> The remaining junk to be removed is either water soluble or not. If
> water soluble, water is the best means of cleaning. If insoluble, then
> a suitable surfactant added to water will remove oils, etc. That leaves
> the nasty stuff that requires a solvent. Isopropyl alcohol is a good
> starting choice - anything stronger is likely to dissolve wanted items.
>
> If you use soap do not use one that is extremely caustic - you can
> remove things that you want like the copper runs. Hand dishwashing
> soaps are generally safe.
>
> However, the last step in any cleaning process should be a rinse with
> ** de-ionized ** water and a thorough drying. This will remove any
> conductive remnants that remain. I generally air dry my stuff over
> night (Arizona, but recommend 6 months for Florida). If you are in a
> hurry, a hair dryer or and oven at 140F/60C will hasten things ( using
> heat guns and warmer ovens runs the risk of doing in capacitors and
> removing surface mount items). Distilled water can be used in a pinch,
> but be aware that the stuff is corrosive. This last step is especially

What could possibly be in pure H2O (distilled) that would be
corrosive? Also, how could it not be in de-ionized water?

                                                - don

> important if you have CMOS or analog circuits involved. The military
> uses pure alcohol as a final step to remove any remaining water.
> However, the stuff they use is far less volatile than isopropyl and
> does not contain any water.
>
> Of late I have been playing with a daily shower cleaner (USA->TILEX
> Fresh Shower). The stuff has isopropanol, a great surfactant, and a
> chelating agent. The latter ingredient will take off those insoluble
> minerals that remain. Seems to work well. If you go this route, ensure
> that you read the label - there are shower cleaners that have acid in
> them and will definitely take everything off the board... Still do the
> de-ionized rinse afterwards.
>
> A couple of precautions: dip switches should be sealed with tape to
> limit wetting. I generally drop some switch lubricant/cleaner in each
> and exercise the switch subsequent to cleaning. Unplug and remove
> relays, if possible. Switches, relays, connectors, and edge connectors
> should get a treatment with a suitable lubricant/preservative.
>
> Lastly, you should do all the above in the undisturbed privacy of your
> home. A number of years ago, a friend's salt sculpture atop his TV
> broke filling the set with the super-saturated salt solution. I told
> him to take the set out back, remove the back, and hose it out. A nosy
> neighbor asked what he was doing and he said that he was watering the
> set to make it grow bigger. He related the line to the sheriff that
> subsequently showed up. I then spent the afternoon convincing the
> psychologist that hosing down a TV was a rational act...
>
> Claude Ceccon
>
>
Received on Wed Jan 14 2004 - 16:31:30 GMT