There are several switch makers that sell keypads that are simply switch
arrays which you can hook up however you like. If you look at a few switch
makers' catalogs, perhaps you can find what you need and then connect the
switch matrix to match what's on the KIM. I've built memory circuits, etc,
for the KIM, but never paid much attention to the KIM itself, hence, I can't
remember anything specific about the keypad, except that it could easily
have been better, and could only have been worse with great difficulty. I
don't have many current catalogs, but you might look for Grayhill for
starters. IF you add an external keypad, you could wire it in parallel with
the matrix on the board, by the way. That way you don't have to fiddle with
the expansion connector.
Dick
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ross Archer" <archer_at_topnow.com>
To: <classiccmp_at_classiccmp.org>
Sent: Monday, January 22, 2001 9:20 PM
Subject: Re: KIM-1 restoration advice sought
> Joe,
>
> Thanks for the offer, but unfortunately I don't think it has anything like
> standard parts. Everything about it looks custom-molded to fit the
> unusual key shape (curved keytops with painted legends and smoothly-
> rounded key edges), unusual key layout (slide switch + two independent
> buttons and 3 x 7 matrix of scanned buttons).
>
> The way it's put together suggests to me a very well-designed custom
> keypad that would only make sense if sold in the thousands.
>
> Of course, as always, I could be wrong. :)
>
>
> -- Ross
>
>
>
>
> Joe wrote:
>
> > Ross,
> >
> > What kind of keys does it use? The Motorola and Intel SBCS use
> > individual square switches and square keytops and the whole thing is
only
> > about 1/2" high. I found a small supply of new ones in a surplus store
> > here. If your KIM uses the same ones I see how many are left and get
them
> > for you.
> >
> > Joe
> >
> > At 07:25 PM 1/17/01 -0800, you wrote:
> > >I have a partially-functional KIM-1 (date code 0378) I'd like to
> > >restore.
> > >(And if anyone has one in good condition to sell, I'm also interested.)
> > >
> > >Currently, there are two things wrong, and I'm looking for general
> > >advice on what if anything can be done to fix them:
> > >
> > >1. The keypad is pretty flakey. Several keys register erratically,
> > >and when they do, they bounce and report multiple times.
> > >The '0' key is particularly bad in this respect.
> > >The 'PC' key is utterly caved in. But all but the PC key
> > >registers in with varying degrees of retries and effort.
> > >
> > >I'm handy with soldering, and could remove the keypad, but
> > >don't have any idea how to clean / fix a keypad, let alone repair
> > >any broken springs, contacts, etc. Can it even be done? Has
> > >anyone here even seen the inside of one of these?
> > >
> > >2. The cassette interface doesn't read. It writes fine, the +12 supply
> > >is
> > >showing up where it's expected (pin 8 of LM311) and +11-ish on the
> > >565 PLL, but I have no idea what the "normal" voltages on each pin
> > >are to assist in further troubleshooting. All I'm sure about is that
> > >the
> > >output of the LM311 is not anything like what's expected, and the
> > >trimpot doesn't affect the PLL frequency one iota according to my
scope.
> > >
> > >Any thoughts on how to tell what section is bad?
> > >
> > >Thanks for any ideas out there.
> > >
> > >In the meantime, I am thinking of wiring an outboard keypad and hooking
> > >it
> > >to the application connector. Hand-wired, of course. Where else would
> > >you find a 3x7 matrix?
> > >
> > >.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
>
>
Received on Tue Jan 23 2001 - 02:16:55 GMT