>Thanks, but I don't have the required long torx screwdriver and case
>cracker
>tool, and I am a little scared to crack open the case, mean evil nasty
>high voltages live
>in there. Besides I might bust something inside and that would be bad.
Screw driver, as others have mentioned can be bought at Sears. Case
cracker you can also get at Sears. Buy a smallish spring wood clamp, then
remove the rubber protective tips. The blade tips will then fit into the
case crack, squeeze the clamp, and it pops the case open.
Or you can do the Shake and Bounce method of loosening the case... but I
don't recommend that. If you have to do a forceful method, do the light
tapping around the edges method (or just pick up the dang clamp when
buying your screwdriver!)
As for the voltages, there isn't anything readily accidentally touched
inside. The Analog Board (the one with the lethal power), is mounted in
such a way that you can't accidentally touch the inside of it. You have
to try to reach in and do it. And the back side of the board (that you
can accidentally touch) is covered with an insulating sheet, so you can
touch away and nothing will happen.
HOWEVER, removal of the logic board, so you can upgrade the RAM, can lead
you to needing to reach into the lethal zone. The board was designed to
slide about 1/2 inch and then release from one side of the cage, letting
you tip the board out and then disconnect the power, floppy, hard drive
(if there is one) and sound. However, I've yet to run into an SE that the
cables are really long enough to let you do that with any ease. It has
always been MUCH easier to reach under the CRT, and disconnect all but
the sound while the logic board is still in place in the cage. THEN
remove it from the cage and disconnect the sound.
So there is a little bit of "danger", but it isn't anything to really
worry too much about. I'd be happy to supply you with a PDF of the take
apart manual along with the SIMMs if you wanted.
-chris
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Received on Fri Aug 20 2004 - 13:45:55 BST