Shoddy Hardware (Was: Re: WW fixtures (was Re: "New" PDP-8))

From: jpero_at_sympatico.ca <(jpero_at_sympatico.ca)>
Date: Mon Apr 1 18:03:56 2002

> I've been building PCs since XTs came out, and I cannot think of a single
> time that I've reamed out a screw, with the exception of one of those very
> fine pitch thread screws the CDROM manufacturers seem to like. If you're
> re-threading the hole everytime, perhaps you should take it a little easier
> on the poor PC case :-)

I have not stripped the M3 (fine kind) ever yet. I did strip the
coarse thread hole out in crap paper-metal cases once in awhile.
Always discard the eaten-up philips heads or thread is stripped when
I find them. Keep your philips number 2 screwdriver fresh by
replacing now when screwdriver starts to cam out, that is how damages
the screw-heads by worn tools.

I'm not talking about sex thing! With that in mind:
Cross threading happens when screw got cocked and kept screwing in.
Cocking happens also if the screwdriver is worn or too loose
(screwdriver #1 with #2 screw. Ditto to wrong fine screw in coarse
holes or vice vesa. All of this I find always give lot of resistance
if started wrong. If that ever happens STOP! and back off and keep
going, keeping that screw straight while spinning counterclockwise
(CCW) till I feel or CLICK! STOP. Now you're ready to spin
counterwise CW safely and easily.

CDROM and floppy, most others stuff use M3. HDs almost always are
corase type but has to be 2mm long max and quality kind. Except
bigfoots these ex-Quantum 5.25 bigfoots they use fine screw (M3).
Weird.

> I do have one theory that applies to PCs and cars: If you fail to shed
> blood and appease the gods, it will not work when you're done.

Hehehe... :-) Now no longer required. Simple pay bit more for
quality and above average or excellent compatiblity and that will
work every time.

Cheers,

Wizard
Received on Mon Apr 01 2002 - 18:03:56 BST